The appointment of Ahmad bin Tulun (AD 835-884) as prefect of Cairo in 868 came at the end of a long period of political strife. The Bashmurite rebellion of 832 – the last and most violent of Christian uprisings in Egypt – and the Arab-led revolts of 866, both along the Nile delta, led the newly seized Egypt into disarray. To manage the chaotic series of uprisings, Abbasid Caliph al-Mu’tazz appointed Bayik Bey, who in turn sent bin Tulun as his regent. He successfully established authority in Egypt and was even able to conquer Syria in 878. For the first time since the Roman conquest Egypt would constitute an autonomous state. Bin Tulun was also the first governor to break away from the Abbasid caliphate, as he declared independence in 874.
Ahmed bin Tulun decided to build himself a palatine city detached from the previous political boundaries set up before (Fustat, established by Amr bin Aas in AD 642, and al-Askar, laid out by Abbasid Prefect Abu Aun in 751). The new settlement was laid out at a slight distance northeast of al-Askar, and was named al-Qata'i, which translates to the Wards. The name suggests a link to Samarra, as it was divided into quarters known as wards.
Establishment of the Tulinid Mosque
Ahmed bin Tulun built a mosque at the center of the new settlement – on the lower slops of Jabal Yashkur – between AD 876 and 879. The mosque’s form followed the Samarian style, built entirely of brick except for the stone minaret. While brick was local product, it’s choice as a material - rather than marble - for piers and columns is believed to be through the Mesopotamian influences of both bin Tulun and his builders (bin Tulun received his military training in Samara). The mosque’s overall floor plan and pointed arches also suggest further Mesopotamian persuasion, as four arcaded porticoes extend and enclose a square courtyard. The domed ablution fountain in the courtyard was added by Mamluk sultan Lajin (1296-1298), who once sought refuge in the mosque and made vow to restore it.
The mosque porticoes are composed of a double row of arcades on three sides, while the prayer hall on the qibla wall (the fourth side) embodies five arcades supported piers with engaging columns at the corners. Although this motif was repeated in the mosque of al-Hakim in AD 992, it did not become common practice inn Egypt because arcades were preferably built with Antique columns (spoglia).
It had nineteen doors and 128 windows, each of which is made up of stucco grills with geometric patterns (it is unclear if the patterns were original of from later restorations). The walls were crowned with crenellations of open brickwork and decorative motifs and while the frieze was of rosettes and bays – also suggesting Samarian influence or craftsmanship.
The mosque’s six prayer niches all date from different periods; the most remarkable was commissioned by al-Afdal, vizir of Fatmid caliph Mustansir (1036-1094) that was richly decorated in stucco. The prayer room wall was decorated with long inscriptions in Kufic (form of calligraphy) characters carved in wood. The decorative elements of the mosque show both the last traces of Byzantine influence and political hegemony of Samara.
The Ziggurat Minaret of bin Tulun
The mosque surrounded by an open space (ziyada) on the north, south, and west, while bin Tulun’s dar al-imara (palatine residence) once stood on its east.
The minaret was located outside mosque in the ziyada. It was a helical staircase of stone construction, which is still considered unique in Egypt - Ahmed bin Tulun commissioned this ziggurat shape to evoke Samarra. The remarkable stucco and woodwork suggests Iraqi craftsmen employment in the building of the minaret.
The top of the minaret was probably built during Lajin's restorations, as he was credited for the building of a connecting bridge and restoration of the minaret’s square base. It was later replaced during early 14th century restorations by the present stone structure.
The Decline of al-Qatai’
The city was already destroyed by the time the Abbasids ended dynasty's rule in AD905. It was located a considerable distance from the Nile and could not develop as autonomous economic center. It was also located a considerable distance from Fustat with large nonurban space in between and thuscould not become an extension of that city. This mosque is the only remaining structure of al-Qata'I, and the oldest remaining mosque of Islamic Cairo (although Amr bin Aas’ mosque is precedent, it owes it’s current form in entirety to later reconstructions).
Resources
Abu-Luhod, Janet L. Cairo, 1001 Years of the City Victorious (Princeton University Press, 1971)
Meinecke-Berg, Viktoria, “Key Monuments of Islamic Architecture: Egypt”, Architecture of the Islamic World (Thames and Hudson LTD, London, 1978)
Raymond, Andre, Cairo, City of History (American University in Cairo Press, 2000)
Mahmoud Riad - Mahmoud Riad is an Architect / Musician who graduated from the School of Architecture, Planning, and Preservation at the University of ...
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